Surfers need to match the waves they ride with their skills and experience. Beginners ride foam until they have learned the pop up and riding stability. Then beginners become intermediates when they can ride down the faces of real waves and catch waves at an angle.
Then you want to combine riding down faces and catching waves at an angle to catching waves at the corners, especially on beach breaks where there is a high percentage of close out waves. Close outs peak and then the lip starts to fall over fast in usually one or both directions.
At the edge furthest from the lip of the close out there is a face that can be ridden into the waiting pocket. At first you might get real close to the pocket and paddle hard toward the pocket as the lip of the wave reaches you and propels you into a nice pocket ride.
As you get better, you will move more towards the peak or as the professionals call it taking the wave deeper. You start getting more of a steep and fast face which also gives you more speed. Then you bottom turn or carve along the face until you out race the lip and get into the pocket where you can drive or begin maneuvers.
See where to eat and what to do at Oceanside Harbor Restaurants
How about some surf or paddle board lessonsin Oceanside
Save 50% on theater, concerts, sports activities and more in San Diego or your home City because Vendors just want to fill up seats. No cost to join, only your email. See plays or go to Concerts and know in advance when they are going to arrive.
Learn about the Beaches, Surf Culture, Etiquette in the Water and Beginner to Advanced Surfing Instructions in 95 page Illustrated Free E Book, “Learning to Surf in Oceanside”